After our unexpectedly fast paced trip to Lima, we were ready to be back in a beachy town and relaxing after a long drive. So we headed northwest to Huanchaco, a town known for it’s surf and waves to breathe in some pure fresh air and wander about the beach.
We arrived at night time and drove through Trujillo after seeing a campsite called Naylamp based there on the Internet, with the map showing its location in the centre of the city. When we began to ask directions people looked at me as if I were a crazy lady and I realised that just perhaps the map was incorrect- the campsite turned out to be in Huanchaco, the town after Trujillo.
The streets in Trujillo were more or less deserted because Peru were playing a friendly against Ecuador, so we cruised on to Huanchaco to find our campsite. We arrived at Naylamp which appeared in fact to be a hostel with the camping unavailable during the low season. Rooms were 40 soles with a private bathroom and no kitchen access. Not convinced, we decided to try somewhere else so drove around the corner and found Huanchaco Gardens which was advertising itself as a campsite and hostel. Again, when we asked about camping, the owner hastily told us (he was watching the end of the game) that he preferred that we didn’t camp because we would mess up the grass with our van, but could offer us a room for 50 soles. I asked about a kitchen and he said it was 60, but being the crafty traveller that I am, I knew he wanted to go back upstairs as soon as possible so pleaded with him for 50 soles for the room with the kitchen. He said yes and flew back up the stairs to watch the final minutes of the game (Peru won 1-0).
The room was lovely with a little camping stove, a table and chairs and a few cooking utensils. The shower was ok with lukewarm water, but the bed was an absolute dream (seriously, no pun intended), it was huge and comfy and had lots of blankets. The pillows were really nice and after making ourselves something to eat, we had a good night’s sleep.
The next day we explored a bit and went to the market to find some food. It’s quite small and there are fewer options than in other places we had been to, but coming from the corner we could hear a little lady’s voice telling some locals about the menu she was offering. Bingo, we went over to meet Tia Juanita.
The little lady was offering a yummy soup with vegetables and pasta and the standard veggie option of fried fish with rice, salad and beans with a glass of juice for a bargain 4 soles per person/94 pence. She was an absolute sweetheart and spoke to everyone that walked past whether they were local or not. She told us proudly that she’d moved Huanchaco with her seven children thirty five years ago, when she began to work in her little kitchen and that she likes Chileans because a few of her children had moved there and were enjoying being there. We also bought some veggies and fruit including spinach, tomatoes, passion fruit and lemons to take home with us.
Unless you’re a surfer, there isn’t much to do in Huanchaco during the low season (although we did see quite a few foreigners) and the temperatures are far too low to sunbathe. I met a lovely couple a few days ago from Washington D.C who said that Chan Chan, the ruins of a Pre-Columbian city 5 km from Trujillo are an absolute must see because they have been so well preserved due to recent excavations i.e. that will soon change now they have been opened up.
Services included in the Huanchaco Gardens hostel and ‘campsite’;
The hug double bed with comfy pillows
The camping stove and kitchen utensils
Wifi that reached as far as the kitchen
Warmish water in the shower
And this little guy
Next stop: Lobitos, a surfing ghost town